A combination of solvents was tried.  In general, with Nitrile gloves, I used denatured alcohol, GoofOff and Acetone.  Lacquer Thinner can remove the color banding on newer wire since it is just inked-on.  That is a good thing to remove the white markings on the PVC / Vinyl sheathing replacements, but not so good for the wire.

 

It takes time to clean off the dirt, tape glue, etc.  Work in 1-foot sections and remove the harness tape as you go.  Remove the electrical tape bands that are every 14" or so as you work, but re-tape those bands as you move to the next 1 foot section to keep the harness together.

 

Over-spray was an issue on my harness form the prior owner and my body shop because I did not remove the front harness or fuse-block section.  The 2K paint was thick and hard.  I used gel paint remover with plastic sheets under that in case I dripped.  It removed the paint in about 30 minutes with a scotch-bright pad and final wipe with Denatured Alcohol.

 

The engine bay sheathing was mostly cracked and I replaced that in sections, including running two new wires through the system (one for the oil-temp wire, one for a 10ga hot wire to the fuse  block).

 

I don't show the entire harness, but it was 100% cleaned-up and re-wrapped with cloth or vinyl tape.  Cloth is used through the center tunnel and up to the fuse-box and in the front harness to fuse-box.  Several sizes were purchased for the sheathing.  In some cases, silicone self-amalgamating tape was used to dress and seal the connections of the sheathing transitions.  The silicone tape comes in colors like black and gray.

 

Notice the main harness "snorkel" is wrapped with black silicone self-amalgamating tape.  The 75-76 harness has thicker wire, the extra wire to the front trunk fuel pump and in my case an extra RED wire for power into the fuse-block.  The aftermarket snorkel would not have worked and the hole for the snorkel through the engine shelf is also larger in the 75-76 cars.  The Silicone tape will outlast the car.

 

 

Note the stainless lines and the mounting grommets for them.  That grommet bolt is into a Riv-Nut.

 

The white wire is wired through the sheathing for the oil pressure gauge.  Shown here with the old brake hoses that I replaced when I got around to doing the brakes.

 

 

My finished relay board and voltage regulator.  That voltage regulator failed immediately and I had a spare.  Notice the cleaned-up and heavily crimped ground wires.

 

Black self-amalgamating silicone tape at the junction of the housings.

 

 

 

 

All tabs are covered in a soft vinyl

 

Where the engine lid cable slides through the metal tube, that repair area was tough.  The hole went into the cabin, the driver-side engine shelf was a rusted mess, etc.  All replaced and cleaned up, but not a simple repair to get it to be like this.

 

Shown here with the old brake hoses that I replaced when I got to the brakes.