Originally from my rusted California car, a 74'  Motor has about 225,000 miles on it and has been rebuilt several times.  It was a factory rebuild from the car coming from Canada and then rebuilt 25,000 miles before my purchase.

 

▪Only issue on the pre-build motor was a cracked piston ring.

▪2.0 liter Type IV GA Case with Porsche heads.  Bored by Rimco to 2056 with torque plates and KB Flat-Top pistons.

▪Rocker arms were done with Porsche 911 swivel feet, modified 1.8 rocker arms, spacers and stainless push-rods for zero lash setup.  Shimmed to rocker arm mid-point with adjustable rocker arm and then the stainless rocker arm push-rods were cut.

▪Oil galleys were threaded and plugged.

▪All shimmed to specifications.

▪Left all main and rod bearings alone since last rebuild was under 25,000 miles ago.

▪Been sitting for over 10 years now and it turns with no problems at the flywheel.

▪Tin repair for spark-plug holes was a bear, but it came out OK and you can't tell that I reworked them.

▪Fuel Injection is all in tact and worked well until motor was pulled.  Harness is a bit ratty, but it works.  Jeff Bowlsby builds new ones and that is all for another time.  Has all new fuel injection seals, rebuilt PMS, all new hoses and assembled with Hylomar to prevent air leaks.  D-Jet FI was well sorted.

▪Uses a funky little header.  Don't need heat, but might reconsider that because stainless push-rods mean less valve adjustments.

▪I have a 1.8 with a Big-Bore kit and two Webbers sitting here.  It had an oil leak (leaks) that I never found, probably bad cylinder torque job from prior owner.  Did some work on the Webbers to make it hum a bit better.  Linkage rattled enough to make them bounce and some shimming work helped the most.  That motor needs to go.  I have a 1.7 in pieces here that needs to go too.  Some value to the Fuel Injection pieces on e-Bay I suppose.  Unrelated, I have two sets of spare doors, hoods, etc.  

▪I have a few transmissions too (2 Side-shifters and 1 tail shifter).  They all shift.  The newest / least mileage one needs a few minor seals at the bottom shift-shaft, minor stuff.

▪Time to cleanup this mess and get ONE great car going to drive and grin with.

 

Looks a lot better now.  Original D-Jet from the 74' 2.0.  Tons of new parts.  MPS was set with an Air-Fuel ratio gauge.  The muffler was replaced in September of 2016.

 

Battery, MPS, Overrun valve and Coil.  Note that the coil is mounted away from the distributor a bit more to make it easier to do distributor maintenance.

 

 

Coil is mounted to the tin into nuts welded under the engine tin.  Note the use of RED shrink-wrap to make it easy to put wires back (yeah, black and red, what a concept).

 

 

Stainless Steel lines and the overrun valve and MPS.  Intake runners look way better with the 600 degree porcelain Rust-Oleum paint (gray):

 

This is the driver's side with the painted fuel pressure regulator and painted fuel rails (POR15 silver):

 

Pre-install in April of 2026 after some work on oil seals and a new flywheel.  Old transmission on left has about 250,000miles on it.  The newer transmission has about 80,000 miles on it and it has been cracked open.  It includes t flipped 3rd gear in the 5th gear position for an overdrive.  Highway speed at a GPS 70mph went from about 4000 rpm's to 2900 rpm's.  Highway driving is no loner a total SCREAM-ride.  Oh, and it shifts too!

 

 

 

Black primary wire is my extra ground from the transmission tail to the transmission-to-starter bolt.

 

Engine-Drop or Install assisted with two 3/8" threaded rods and washers and nuts.  Walk it down or up.  I use a jack to speed it along, but it is safer feeling to know that the rods are holding it.  Once the top double nut on the rod is removed, then the front engine-bar bolts slide right in with a jack under the bar.  Simple one-person drop or install with a jack under the transmission end.  Keep it level-ish and you are good to go.

 

The engine before the rework.  This is just POR15, the final paint was 2K Rat-Rod from Eastwood (It sprays-on fantastic!):

 

 

The car to the left is my original 74 with a spare rear trunk.  

This shows the two spark-plug holes in the tin that I reworked.  The one on the right was splayed-out with abut 6 cracks.  Welded up nicely.

NOTE: Test fit and get a spark plug wrench to make sure you are OK.  Left hole here needed to be lowered a bit.  FI harness was rebuilt and the ignition (alternator) harness was replaced with a nice clean restoration harness.