A string alignment with PVC pipes and jack stands was done twice.  An initial alignment and then 25 miles of driving and it was then done again with the new suspension bushings settled in a bit.  Minor changes.  The string is yellow Brick string, but I would use fishing line for the next try at this because it is thinner and 1mm makes a difference in the angles.  The car is dead-straight on the road.

 

Note the tie-wraps around the jack stands to hold the PVC.  It makes a massive difference as you slide the stands and PVC to get both sides even and it is worth the time to zip-tie the PVC to the stands.

 

I researched alignment gauges and DIY methods and rulers, etc.  For me, this was the simplest method and I got a 6-pack of wood rulers on Amazon for about $5.00.  Notice the alignment lines and holes that I drilled in my drill press.  I used an Awl for the initial dots and guide holes and then carefully aligned the drill press bit for each hole to make the left and right perfectly aligned.  The spacing of the holes was to allow me to use this gauge on different wheels.  The holes are 1/2" apart.  BUT... You want the 15" mark to be on the OUTSIDE of the rulers so that they fit inside the rim edge.  More like 14" and 15/16" and then space out 1/2" more form there.

 

NOTE:  The mounting onto the board shown is not as critical because the rulers are not modified and the rulers start at the wheel and extend to the string.  The board shown is really just holding the rulers for fast front and back reads.  My Sharpie marker notes show me the typical mm readings that would represent tow-in or toe-out for a quick brain-jolt reminder.

 

Note the cartoon drawing of my steering wheel to get it centered.  It is surprising that the wheel looks off by about 15 degrees and just 1/8 of a turn on each side will straighten that out.  You get to about 1/10 turn to dial it in after a short drive.